Pavankhind, near the village of Amba is a place of great importance in history of Maharashtra, and possibly the only of the popular examples of Gorilla warfare used by Shivaji, where there was indeed a battle fought.
When we visited Amba, in the month of Jun, we had no idea about what to expect. All we knew was that it was an offbeat destination, which did not attract too many tourists and was setup in a Jungle close to Pavankhind. Certain that jungles in this part of the country would not be as fun and adventure filled as popular wildlife destinations; we set out for a relaxed weekend getaway.
Quite oxymoronically, we got up in the wee hours to start our relaxed weekend. Drive to Amba took us about six hours, most of which were spend in acknowledging the efforts on NHAI, and cherishing the picturesque sahayadris. Yes! vada pao and kanda poha at the Sri Ram's was good too (and so was our relentless search for a place to settle with nature, in case your forgot, we started quite early in the day and vada paos contributed to the cause as well!!).
When we visited Amba, in the month of Jun, we had no idea about what to expect. All we knew was that it was an offbeat destination, which did not attract too many tourists and was setup in a Jungle close to Pavankhind. Certain that jungles in this part of the country would not be as fun and adventure filled as popular wildlife destinations; we set out for a relaxed weekend getaway.Quite oxymoronically, we got up in the wee hours to start our relaxed weekend. Drive to Amba took us about six hours, most of which were spend in acknowledging the efforts on NHAI, and cherishing the picturesque sahayadris. Yes! vada pao and kanda poha at the Sri Ram's was good too (and so was our relentless search for a place to settle with nature, in case your forgot, we started quite early in the day and vada paos contributed to the cause as well!!).
Approaching Amba, we saw motels and resorts by the road side, which made us realize that the place was not as offbeat or secluded as we thought. With some hassle, primarily because of lack of sign board, we made it to the resort, and the first impression that got formed would (and could) only improve in next 24 hours.
First instinct was to check if there was any better place available nearby, but practicality got better of us, and we decided to check in. For the records, there was no reception for 'check in', and next one hour we witnessed more minuses then pluses in favor of our decision to stay - (+) room were spacious, (-) no room service, not even tea, (+) clean bathrooms, (-)late for breakfast, and early for lunch, destined to fast (-) everything seemed unplanned and out of order - jungle walk? van bhojan? (-) there was nothing in the resort except rooms to stay and food to eat. The impression meter was in total red.
Thankfully we could snack on the stuff we carried with us, while the hosts planned the van bhojan for us. And then we got the pick-up call, which would turn to be call of starting an activity packed weekend.
For starters, it was a open topped double (wait it is not a London tour) decker Jeep ride,
with upper deck exclusively floor sitting. Post first five minutes, which were spent in settling down (or was it the thought of jeep top ride that took that long to sink), I felt there could not have been a better way of being so close to nature and moving at a reasonable place.
First instinct was to check if there was any better place available nearby, but practicality got better of us, and we decided to check in. For the records, there was no reception for 'check in', and next one hour we witnessed more minuses then pluses in favor of our decision to stay - (+) room were spacious, (-) no room service, not even tea, (+) clean bathrooms, (-)late for breakfast, and early for lunch, destined to fast (-) everything seemed unplanned and out of order - jungle walk? van bhojan? (-) there was nothing in the resort except rooms to stay and food to eat. The impression meter was in total red.
Thankfully we could snack on the stuff we carried with us, while the hosts planned the van bhojan for us. And then we got the pick-up call, which would turn to be call of starting an activity packed weekend.
For starters, it was a open topped double (wait it is not a London tour) decker Jeep ride,
with upper deck exclusively floor sitting. Post first five minutes, which were spent in settling down (or was it the thought of jeep top ride that took that long to sink), I felt there could not have been a better way of being so close to nature and moving at a reasonable place.
Jeep, undecided, to tip on not to tip, came to halt after few kilometers, which is when we realized that the intent of open-topped-double-decker jeep was multifold. While the tourists enjoyed the nature sitting at the top, everything that was required once we reached the destinations would be stacked on the lower deck - quite an innovation.
A short walk from the road, there were hammocks amidst tall trees.
Quite a location for the 'van bojan', and impression was changing, surely for good. And could the timing have been better for getting introduced to The Don, the man running the show. Loud, standing 6+ feet tall, shaving brush moustache, and rugged attire, he could be anywhere but in hospitality industry.
A short walk from the road, there were hammocks amidst tall trees.
Quite a location for the 'van bojan', and impression was changing, surely for good. And could the timing have been better for getting introduced to The Don, the man running the show. Loud, standing 6+ feet tall, shaving brush moustache, and rugged attire, he could be anywhere but in hospitality industry.
A satiating meal, cool breeze, canopy of trees providing shade, perfect setting for siesta, but then, the don was making calls on what we should be doing, so we were out for a jungle walk, with no trails, and a guide whose sole objective for that hour was to confuse us and ensure that we accept had lost direction.
It was certainly more than a casual stroll, was fun, and was a good warm up to start a long tipsy-turvy drive on the jeep top, to Pavankhind.
Honestly, I had no interest in visiting Pavankhind. OK, this is where two infantries exchanged hostilities, but I could not care less.
Not enthused about the destination I enjoyed the journey, and clicked pictures, of dense forests, through grasslands with view of distant lake, reaching top of a hill, almost. Was able to capture some fauna too.
And then came out the 'historian’s hat'. Not sure if he did it out of interest, or because he considered it a UPS for his business, Mr Don's narration of the battle of Pavankhind, and its relevance to Shivaji's rule, did charge up each one of us. A few gulps of water would suffice for the next strenuous hour. Was it the Don's narration or was there something in the air?
Pavankhind is a narrow gorge, which comes to an abrupt end. It is about 50 feet deep, as it stand today.
Climb on either side of the pass is almost vertical. There are harnesses and ladders that have been put for tourists to climb down into the gorge, but the climb down is not weak hearted. Under normal circumstances, one would need a few tequilas to get high and then go low (by 50 ft.). For us, Mr Don’s constant (and loud) encouragement did the trick. Young (as young as 4 years) and old, all were bitten by the bug and off they went like the 'Mavalas'. About 45 minutes, few scratches here and there, and some 'living on the edge' moments later we were out, having done what Siddi Johar's men could not do, escape out of Pavankhind, alive.
It was around dusk time when we started our journey back, of course sitting on the roof top, relaxing and lull. I was contemplating if it would be dinner then shower or the other way, availability of hot water would drive the decision. But then, the Don woke us up from our slumber, by turning the vehicle towards the dam, and before long, all the men had taken a plunge, exhibiting there brands (!!). No guards, no life jackets, not even enough light. We may not have yet exhausted our quota of adventure for the day, but gone overboard on fancying our chances. Or was it a holy dip in sacred waters, as we were about to witness possibly once is a lifetime event, something we could not capture using our cameras. It was like the whole valley was decorated for Christmas, or walking through the twinkling stars. Never thought I would love flies, but fire flies are adorable - conditionally - when seen in thousands, late at night.
A good meal, some chit chat and it was time to call it a day. Or may be not, some of us would not believe that Bisons are nocturnal, so out we went for night safari. Though a loner, there was one Bison out grazing in the field proving us and the zoologist right. Impression meter had turned a lot by now.
Next morning started with a heavy breakfast followed by a moderate hike. Out came the 'chef's hat' this time, and our Don was as passionate about serving us the right way as he was narrating the triumphs of Maratha warriors at Pavankhind. During the hike we passed through a village where even (did I see name plates on the houses? may be not) the loos had name plates. Back from the hike, some light moments at the resort, getting close to nature - running behind roaster, playing with a goat (it wasn't me, we had kids with us, Eesha, Sarah), and we were ready for one final excursion before heading back.
Final one was more of an educational trip, and it started with a museum, with lots of information on flora and fauna of the region. Surely, I would have enjoyed it twice at half the age. It amazed me what kept the Don going; he was on the wrong side of fifty and would replay his commentary with same modulations, almost non-stop. After theory, it was time for lab, and we went to Devrai (sacred forest). Out came the sociologist's hat; and elaboration on whats and whys of Devrai. Even the God lauded him for the effort and showered rains.
It was a weekend well spend. Would certainly not have been the same, but for one man - the chef, historian, sociologist. May be he was just a man living his passion, and a damn good host. Impression meter is in total green.
It was certainly more than a casual stroll, was fun, and was a good warm up to start a long tipsy-turvy drive on the jeep top, to Pavankhind.Honestly, I had no interest in visiting Pavankhind. OK, this is where two infantries exchanged hostilities, but I could not care less.
Not enthused about the destination I enjoyed the journey, and clicked pictures, of dense forests, through grasslands with view of distant lake, reaching top of a hill, almost. Was able to capture some fauna too.And then came out the 'historian’s hat'. Not sure if he did it out of interest, or because he considered it a UPS for his business, Mr Don's narration of the battle of Pavankhind, and its relevance to Shivaji's rule, did charge up each one of us. A few gulps of water would suffice for the next strenuous hour. Was it the Don's narration or was there something in the air?
Pavankhind is a narrow gorge, which comes to an abrupt end. It is about 50 feet deep, as it stand today.
Climb on either side of the pass is almost vertical. There are harnesses and ladders that have been put for tourists to climb down into the gorge, but the climb down is not weak hearted. Under normal circumstances, one would need a few tequilas to get high and then go low (by 50 ft.). For us, Mr Don’s constant (and loud) encouragement did the trick. Young (as young as 4 years) and old, all were bitten by the bug and off they went like the 'Mavalas'. About 45 minutes, few scratches here and there, and some 'living on the edge' moments later we were out, having done what Siddi Johar's men could not do, escape out of Pavankhind, alive.It was around dusk time when we started our journey back, of course sitting on the roof top, relaxing and lull. I was contemplating if it would be dinner then shower or the other way, availability of hot water would drive the decision. But then, the Don woke us up from our slumber, by turning the vehicle towards the dam, and before long, all the men had taken a plunge, exhibiting there brands (!!). No guards, no life jackets, not even enough light. We may not have yet exhausted our quota of adventure for the day, but gone overboard on fancying our chances. Or was it a holy dip in sacred waters, as we were about to witness possibly once is a lifetime event, something we could not capture using our cameras. It was like the whole valley was decorated for Christmas, or walking through the twinkling stars. Never thought I would love flies, but fire flies are adorable - conditionally - when seen in thousands, late at night.
A good meal, some chit chat and it was time to call it a day. Or may be not, some of us would not believe that Bisons are nocturnal, so out we went for night safari. Though a loner, there was one Bison out grazing in the field proving us and the zoologist right. Impression meter had turned a lot by now.
Next morning started with a heavy breakfast followed by a moderate hike. Out came the 'chef's hat' this time, and our Don was as passionate about serving us the right way as he was narrating the triumphs of Maratha warriors at Pavankhind. During the hike we passed through a village where even (did I see name plates on the houses? may be not) the loos had name plates. Back from the hike, some light moments at the resort, getting close to nature - running behind roaster, playing with a goat (it wasn't me, we had kids with us, Eesha, Sarah), and we were ready for one final excursion before heading back.
Final one was more of an educational trip, and it started with a museum, with lots of information on flora and fauna of the region. Surely, I would have enjoyed it twice at half the age. It amazed me what kept the Don going; he was on the wrong side of fifty and would replay his commentary with same modulations, almost non-stop. After theory, it was time for lab, and we went to Devrai (sacred forest). Out came the sociologist's hat; and elaboration on whats and whys of Devrai. Even the God lauded him for the effort and showered rains.
It was a weekend well spend. Would certainly not have been the same, but for one man - the chef, historian, sociologist. May be he was just a man living his passion, and a damn good host. Impression meter is in total green.
Highlights,
- Fire flies, most like specifc to time of the year
- Vertical drop at Pavankhind, followed by a short hike
- Devrai, a sacred forest
- Night safari
- Sri Ram's Vad Pao and Kanda Poha (close to Khed Shivapur on Satara Rd.)
View Larger Map
